Sunday, March 1, 2015

Shellburg Falls - An Unexpected Treasure

Sabbath Rest with the Fam
President's Day was GORGEOUS here.  Somehow Oregon has missed the memo that it is supposed to be winter.  We've had a very sunny, dry and warm winter which could lead to drought-like conditions this summer.  I'm choosing to enjoy every ray of sunshine and praying that we get the snow we need for a fire-free summer.

The kids and Curt were off from school and work so we took the dogs and drove to the Shellburg Falls trailhead in the Santiam State Forest.  These days of Sabbath Rest are so important for our family now that Curt is in grad school.  We need them to keep functioning at such a full-throttle pace.  This hike exceeded our entire family's expectations for a whole list of reasons.

1.  EASY TRAILHEAD ACCESS.  We took I5 south to Salem.  Exited onto the Santiam Highway.  Drove for 23 miles.  Turned left onto Fern Ridge Road.  1.2 miles later and we were at the trailhead parking lot.  No gravel roads or car-swallowing pot holes - this route was straightforward and easy to get to.

2.  CLOSE.  Most of the hikes in our guidebooks involve driving an average of 1.5 hours from Newberg to get to the trailhead.  Because we didn't encounter any traffic we were able to get to the trailhead in an hour.  The kids actually asked in disbelief, "We're here already? Awesome!"

3.  EASY.  This hike is easy-peasy.  The hardest part about it is the length.  At 5.7 miles round trip, it might be a bit too far for really little legs.  The route is a balloon - out and back on the gravel road with a loop through the forest.  The parts of the trail that gained elevation did it gradually.  None of the kids complained about the ascending and we all loved coming back down from the highest point.

4.  SCENIC.  This hike was so pretty.  The first 1.3 miles are on a wide, gravel road through private farmland featuring one rolling meadow after another. It was like something out of a fairy tale - idyllic and peaceful with baby cows and momma cows playing in the meadows.
Paige, Grant and Dusty
Paige, Curt and Alli
The old growth forest was everything I love about Oregon.  Ridiculously tall trees covered in moss and every shade of green imaginable.  The warm sunlight filtered through them, dancing on the ground in front of us and casting beautiful shadows on the trail.
light and shadows
the trail
every shade of green
We viewed three waterfalls in 5.7 miles.  Lower Shellburg Falls, Shellburg Falls, and Stassel Falls.  Lower Shellburg Falls is at the junction of the private road and a trail into the forest.  We stood on a bridge above the falls and looked down, down, down as the water dropped over the edge to the creek bottom below.
Looking over the top of Lower Shellburg Falls
Kids and dogs by Lower Shellburg Falls.  The water goes under the bridge they're sitting on and tumbles over the edge on the other side.
The trail through the woods took us to a viewing station at the base of Shellburg Falls.  The kids stood on the water's edge and let the spray from the waterfall gently kiss their faces.
Katie getting kissed by the water at the lower viewpoint of Shellburg Falls.
From the viewing station we hiked up and then behind Shellburg Falls.  This was the only part as the trail that felt a little dangerous.  It was muddy and there was no guard rail on the edge of the trail.  It would be easy to lose your footing and slip over the edge if you weren't being careful.  Take caution in this small section of the trail.
Shellburg Falls 
The family behind the falls
Standing in the cave behind the waterfall shooting out
We climbed up a flight of stairs and followed the trail up into the forest above the waterfall coming out at a remote and darling campground.  We picnicked and filled our water bottles at the campground.  It would be a great place to come back to stay for a weekend.
stairs going up
these cute bridges were spread out on the trail
Kimber and Dusty - the best of friends - at our picnic spot.
There were several trails stemming from the campground, but we took the suggestion in our hiking book and followed the Vine Maple Trail back into the woods.  It looped us back toward the water  and then up again into more forest where we began our descent back down.
At the highest point before we started back down.
An unmarked trail feeds off the route we were on.  We followed it and it took us to the top of Stassel Falls.  Hidden in the woods on the edge of the Santiam State Forest, Stassel Falls was beautiful, but hard to get a clear view of from the spot in the forest that we were viewing it.  I loved standing on the rocks above the falls though and watching the water dive over the edge to the creek bottom below.
the unmarked trail junction
Stable Falls dropping off the edge...
the top of Stassel Falls
5.  NOT CROWDED.  The Shellburg Falls hike was a total gem.  Unlike nearby Silver Falls State Park that is ALWAYS crowded,  Shellburg Falls was virtually untouched by humans.  We only passed  a handful of groups out hiking on a beautiful, holiday day.  That alone will draw me back.

Overall it was a banner day.  The kids never complained once.  The dogs loved hiking with us and had several opportunities to get a drink in the creek.  The weather was gorgeous.  The trails well marked.  The waterfalls beautiful.  We came home feeling like we'd enjoyed the day without being overly exhausted from too much exertion hiking.

If you're looking for a scenic hike that's not too strenuous and that is close to Newberg, I highly recommend Shellburg Falls.  Happy hiking!


Thursday, January 29, 2015

Salmon River - An Enchanted Old Growth Forest, a Raging River and a Magical Day

** I feel like I need to make a blanket apology for how inconsistent and boring my writing has been lately.  Since I launched my photography business, I just haven't had the time or the mental space to write creatively.  But life is slipping by so quickly and I still want to capture glimpses of these awesome moments, even if the writing isn't super creative.  So thanks for bearing with me.**

This Monday the kids had the day off from school while their teachers worked on report cards.  Newberg was socked in with thick fog so we went chasing sunshine.  We found it - and the warmth it brings - in the forest at the base of Mt. Hood.

"We" - meaning Me, my Four Kids (Grant, Katie, Alli and Paige), Grant's best friend Alden, and our two dogs: Dusty and Kimber (sorry that's another post I haven't written yet, but she's an adorable, chocolate labradoodle puppy) - wanted to hike Ramona Falls.
Dusty

Kimber
It's been unseasonably warm and dry this winter resulting in less snow in the mountains.  Ramona Falls is in the lower elevation of the Mt. Hood National Forest so we drove out that way even though our hiking book said the hiking season is May to October.  We didn't even get a mile on the Forest Service Road before we came upon a gated off section.  The road was closed.  Boo.  But I appreciate the vigilance of the Forest Service to keep people from driving on roads that aren't serviced in the winter months.

We turned around and headed for our second choice: Salmon River-Devils Peak hike.  We didn't have to backtrack far to get to Salmon River Road.  The trailhead was super easy to access - directly off a paved road that funnels into Highway 26.  Easy peasy.  It was a  nice change from miles of potholed, dirt roads that we often drive to get to hiking trailheads.
This rock face was right at the trail head.  Photo credits to Alden.
The Salmon River trail goes for miles and miles.  Our hiking book gave detailed information about the hike from the lower trailhead and from the upper trailhead.  We chose the upper trailhead because it climbs from the riverbed up and up through the forest to a viewpoint of the Salmon River Canyon.  I love a good panoramic view, even if I have to work for it.  I hope I'm training my kids to like them too!

My kids are hit or miss with hiking.  Little Paigey is ALWAYS up for a hike.  She will hike miles and miles on end without complaining and she loves it.
Paigey - she melts me.  Oh and Dusty too.
Katie usually moans when I tell her we're going hiking.
My beautiful Katie Joy
Grant and Alli's reactions are unpredictable.  But they (including Alden) all manned up for this hike, strapping on their day packs and their good attitudes.
The boys took their lunch deeper into the woods.  I thought it was so reflective of their long-time friendship in the fact that they had the same hats, almost the same backpacks, and they even were taking bites at the same time! #twinsies
Alli Claire - she's so fun.
It was by far the most fun we've ever had hiking.  The kids didn't complain.  They didn't argue with each other or get mad at me.  We all just had SO.MUCH.FUN!  I am so proud of them because the climb to the canyon viewpoint required some effort.

The overall hike was 6.6 miles - a 3.3 mile out-and-back route.  The first two miles were easy.  A wide, single track trail led us into the most incredible old growth forest.  It was like we stepped into the set of a movie - Lord of the Rings or Chronicles of Narnia.  Green and lush - this forest was magical.  Even the kids noticed how incredible it was. The trail meandered up and down little ridges that alternately showcased the raging Salmon River and the magnificent old-growth forest.  Every step of the way was lovely with a capital L.
Tiny hikers.  Big forest.
We picnicked a little less than two miles into our journey in a beautifully green part of the forest using fallen logs covered with moss as our picnic benches.  Just past our picnic area was my favorite spot.  We hiked over a quaint wooden bridge to view a tiny waterfall in the heart of the forest.  We all just stood and soaked in the magic of the moment - the smell of the forest.  The sound of the water rushing over the rocks.  The vibrants greens that stimulated our sight.  The dampness of the air on our skin.  It was pretty cool.
the bridge and stream past the waterfall

Grant and Alden
Two miles into our hike we started our 1.3 mile ascent to the top of the canyon.  As far as hikes go, I'd rate the climb as "moderate."  We definitely were sweating and shedding layers as we hiked and we took two breaks as we climbed.
I really like the use of light in this image. Another great image taken by Alden.
The trail was NARROW, curvy, and had some significant drops off the edge at some points.  It was nerve-wracking enough that I never let the dogs off their leads even though Dusty is the most obedient dog on the planet. We hiked together - single file.  The boys led the way.  Then the girls.  Then me and the dogs in the back so I could keep an eye on everyone.  I didn't love being the only adult responsible for keeping everyone alive and safe.
The boys leading the way.  The little creeks that feed into the river crossed the trail in several spots.  It was so pretty!
At one point about 3/4 of the way up the climb Paigey tripped on a tree root and pitched forward on the trail.  She caught herself with her hands but started to roll toward the steep edge.  Thankfully I was right behind her and grabbed her backpack as she rolled.  Dang it all.  You can never be too careful when you're hiking.  Thank you Jesus for keeping her safe.
Grant on the trail approaching the viewpoint.  Out of the forest.  Not quite to the panoramic yet.  Another great shot by Alden.
The viewpoint came out of nowhere.  One minute we were in the forest.  The next we were on a very narrow trail with drop-offs everywhere and the most incredible view of the forest we'd just climbed through.  The raging river was a mere drop in a sea of dark green trees from the top of the canyon.  It made us all realize just how insignificant we really are in this big, vast universe!

At the viewpoint
The kids loved resting at the viewpoint, but I couldn't relax.  Flashbacks of my camera crashing over the edge of Neahkahnie Mountain and of my iPhone jumping off the edge of our picnic spot on McNeil Point trail kept me nervous and edgy.  I just couldn't relax being the only adult in a sea of awesome kids and two adorable dogs.  We took a few pictures and then I moved everyone off the open view point and back into the woods.
hiking is exhausting
Alden taking in the view.  This photo was taken by Grant. I love seeing the kids' creativity coming out in the photos they take.
Look closely.  The tiny drop of white in the middle of the image is the Salmon River.
We carefully picked our way back down the trail to the forest floor below.  It was a huge relief to get off the ridge and the narrow parts of the trail and back into the safety of the enchanted forest.

The last two miles of the hike felt long.  We all (even the dogs) got tired but the beautiful scenery kept us going.  We felt very accomplished when we finally made it back to the car.
Just to prove I really went along for the hike.
I can't wait to come back and run this trail with my running buddies.  I think we'll be able to cover more ground than I did with the kids and maybe get past the viewpoint where we turned around and closer to Devil's Peak.

If you live anywhere close to Mt. Hood, you should try this trail.  It is a little piece of heaven.  Happy hiking.

Wednesday, December 31, 2014

Marquam Trail to Council Crest Hike

For my birthday, I asked my family to go for hike with me.  We didn't have a lot of time and needed to stay local, so we drove into the heart of Portland and hopped on the Marquam Trail - near OHSU off Sam Jackson Parkway.  It never ceases to amaze me that you can be steps away from the urban core and enter into preserved forest with trails that go for miles.  Portland is so cool.

It was a typical fall day for Oregon - the woods a wash of orange and yellow and gray skies that occasionally drizzled, but threatened to open up and pour.
starting our hike
We followed the Nature Trail up to the Marquam Trail which leads to Council Crest.  The trail follows the Marquam Gulch up, up, and up to the Council Crest at the summit.
Love my Crew!
This guy is pretty darn cute!
The trail was muddy due to rain and steep in some parts but overall was rated moderate.  I agree with that rating.  It was definitely a climb, but the grade was manageable.
The leaves were big!
pretty forest
We hiked right up into a thick blanket of fog.  It gave the woods a mysterious appeal and completely obscured the view from Council Crest.  Apparently the panoramic view includes the city of Portland in the valley and four volcanic peaks in Oregon and Washington, but we could barely see our hands in front of our faces.
Can you find Grant?
into the fog
Paige asked her Daddy to dance with her so they waltzed around the veranda.  It was sweet and made for a cool photo op.
dancing with Daddy 
I thought this statue was cool
We ate our snacks in the fog, posed for a group picture, and wandered around the park before heading back the same way we came.
Cool water tower - we were hoping to find a bathroom, but this was cool.
Family shot at the view point
Overall this was a fun hike.  It was short and sweet, but not so short that it didn't feel worth the effort to go.  The trail cuts through neighborhoods and crosses a few roads so hikers need to watch the trail signs closely and be careful crossing the streets.

We will definitely come back again on a clear day to catch the view.

Overall hiking distance: 3.7 miles.

Happy hiking.

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Washington Park-Hoyt Arboretum Hike and Oregon Holocaust Memorial

Portland has a ton of cool parks.  Washington Park and the Hoyt Arboretum are no exception.  There are so many cool things to do in this vast expanse of space that you could come here a hundred times and not see it all. 

The week before my birthday my good friend Ann guided me on a super sweet Portland hike that included Washington Park, Hoyt Arboretum, and the Oregon Holocaust Memorial.   We didn't follow the same route described in my hiking book, but we still managed to get in over four miles of super cool hiking.

Ann (I call her Annabelle and she calls me Jodiata) met me at Zuppan's on Burnside and 23rd.  We walked a handful of steps up the sidewalk to a paved trail that led right into thick, beautiful woods drenched in mysteriously beautiful fog.  It was hard to reconcile how lovely it was with the fact that we were blocks from the urban core of a major metropolitan city.  Portland is SO SO SO cool!
Just steps  off a busy city street and blocks from the urban core.
Annabelle has lived in this area for years and she knows her way around the Portland trail system.  She told me the trail we were hiking on used to be the main road into the city and the round, metal rings embedded in the pavement were what patrons used to tie up their horses.  
Cool staircase on our hike. 
We hiked our way through the foggy forest and into the famous Rose Gardens of Washington Park.  The view of the city and mountain peaks was obscured by the fog, but I loved it.  It felt like we were walking through an enchanted garden.
Washington Park
Washington Park
The Rose Garden Offices looked similar to a stone bathroom house we saw earlier on our hike - beautifully maintained and repurposed.  Just lovely.
Rose Garden Offices
We hiked out of the Rose Gardens and along the fringe of the Japanese Gardens.  I came to the Japanese Gardens on a field trip in fifth grade and it made a huge impression on me.  I followed our tour guide around, committing to memory all the interesting facts.  When I got home I insisted that my family go see this gem of the city and toured them around, regurgitating every last piece of information from the field trip.  Annabelle and I opted not to tour the gardens, but we were able to walk around the outskirts and get a taste of how lovely they still are.  I'd love to go back this spring and meander through them with my camera.
Japanese Gardens
Japanese Gardens
After the Japanese Gardens we walked into a quiet residential area.  Annabelle knew how to navigate through the neighborhood and back out into the Forest Park trail system.  We followed the Wildwood Trail up into the main entrance of the Hoyt Arboretum.  Hoyt Arboretum means "tree museum" and the trails around the museum are named for the types of trees planted in each segment.  We wandered around on some of these trails then jumped back on the Wildwood Trail to head to our cars.
Hoyt Arboretum
Hoyt Arboretum
**NOTE:  I think the trail system in Forest Park is really complex and complicated.  There are signs at most trail junctions, but unless you know where you're going and have a general sense of direction, it's easy to get turned around and head the wrong way on the right trail.  I wouldn't venture into Forest Park without a trail map or a friend who knows the trails.
Gosh do I love this woman!
On our way back to the car, we stopped at the cute public bathroom, located in a small landscaped park.  While there I noticed a sign for the Oregon Holocaust Memorial so I followed it.  I nearly tripped over a bronze statue of a violin laying on the walkway.  It honestly took my breath away and I stopped in my tracks.  As I looked around, I got goosebumps.

A bench, framed by bushes, sat on the edge of the memorial. The bench represented a town square.  "During the Holocaust, many Jewish families were gathered in town square before being loaded onto trains and taken to concentration camps.  The square contains scattered bronzes of shoes, glasses, a suitcase, and other items to represent everyday objects that were left behind.  A European style cobblestone walkway with inlaid granite bars, simulating railroad tracks, led to a wall of history panels that offer a brief history of the Holocaust and quotes from Holocaust survivors."

I snapped this photo on my iPhone, but left my real camera in my backpack.  For whatever reason, I didn't feel right taking photographs in what felt like a sacred place
I followed the path to the rock wall.  As I read quote after sobering quote, I felt myself start to silently cry.  What a tremendous loss of life.  And for what?  Grief overwhelmed me.

At the end of the wall is a soil vault panel.  "Buried below the panel are interred soil and ash from six killing-center camps of the Holocaust.   The back of the wall is engraved with the names of people who died in the camps, followed by the names of their surviving relatives in Oregon and SW Washington."  

For the first time in my life, a small portion of the weight of unfathomable tragedy of the Holocaust rested on my shoulders.  It was suffocating.  Sobering and oh-so important.  If you are in the area, this memorial is worth your time.

Annabelle and I walked back to our cars in quieter conversation, mulling over what we had just seen. We finished our hike off with coffee from Barista on 23rd and lunch at Papa Hayden's.  It was absolutely wonderful.

I highly recommend taking a day to enjoy all the best that Portland has to offer.  Great hiking.  Beautiful parks.  A moving memorial. Delicious food.  And of course, some of the best coffee in the country.

What I can't offer you is time with a woman was wonderful as Annabelle.  THAT - you will have to find on your own.

Happy hiking!