Exclamation Mark! - South Sister Summit Hike Review

Starting out.  Not sweaty or tired yet. 

Did you know you can hike to the summit of Oregon's third tallest mountain peak? 

Neither did I until a couple of years ago.  When I found out the summit of the South Sister was accessible via a hiking trail that did not require mountain climbing gear, I freaked out.  Then added it to my list of things I just HAD to do while living here.

Last summer (August of 2013) was our weekend to summit the South Sister.  Oregon.com says this about the South Sister trail, "Admittedly the trail up 10,358 foot South Sister is exceedingly steep, long and rugged, but no technical climbing skills are required and the rewards are great."  I wanted IN on those rewards.

Curt and I set the kids up with some cool people to take care of them and headed to Central Oregon.  We scrapped our original plan to backpack because Curt's Jeep was dying a slow and painful death and we had to spend time in Bend researching new vehicles.  It was a blessing in disguise though because we stumbled upon Hosmer Lake, a "hidden jewel of green and blue surrounded by dark forests."  

Further off the beaten path than Elk Lake, the campground around Hosmer Lake has large, secluded camp sites.  The one we selected was like having the campground entirely to ourselves.  Really private.  Really beautiful.  Really quiet.  Perfect for a getaway centered around time together and without the chaos of our large family.  

The only drawback to Hosmer Lake is that it's not a swimming lake.  The campground hosts told us it has leeches in it and that if we wanted to swim we should go to nearby Elk Lake.  So we did.

We slept like babies on our new camping cots (why on earth did we wait so long to invest in cots?!?) and were at the South Sister Summit Trailhead by 8 a.m. the following morning.

Our hiking map suggest the South Sister Summit as a possible hike. Techinical skill was marked "Advanced" and the Aerobic category was listed as "Strenuous!"   We both laughed at the exclamation mark.  It was the only hike on the map with an exclamation mark. 

Let me tell you - we earned that exclamation mark!  It was a "strenuous!" hike.

The South Sister Summit trail is only open August through mid-October.  The "extremely difficult trail to the summit gains a staggering 4,900 feet of elevation in 5.5 miles." All hiking books and guides make sure to give this warning:  "Do NOT attempt to climb the summit in anything but perfect weather.  If there is a cloud on the summit, even on an otherwise sunny day, hikers could well encounter a blizzard whiteout at the top."  

GEAR

• Trail shoes.  We each hiked in our favorite trail shoes.  Most hikers wore hiking boots, but a good solid pair of trail shoes will get you there and back.
• Gaiters.  Gaiters are protective coverings that go over the top of your hiking shoes and socks.  They prevent trail debris from sneaking inside your shoes and socks.  We don't own gaiters and didn't buy any, but they sure would have come in handy on this hike.  The cinder scree (rocky, lava soil toward the top of the mountain) filled our shoes on the ascent and descent.
• Hiking Poles.  We borrowed hiking poles for this trip and they were crucial.  We relied heavily on them for a big portion of the ascent and the descent.  Having the extra support and balance saved us both from multiple would-be falls on the trail.  I wouldn't do South Sister without hiking poles.
• Backpacks.  Every hiker on the mountain needs a backpack stocked with layers of clothing (it's cold at the top), a lunch, hearty snacks, a whistle (in case you get lost), a poncho to keep dry in case of emergency, and some toilet paper and hand sanitizer.
• WATER.  Hiking guides recommend a minimum of two quarts of water per hiker for this hike.  We brought our backpacking water filter and were so grateful we did because we filled up our 48 ounce water bottles multiple times on the trail.  We couldn't stop drinking water.  We also filtered water for several unprepared hikers who were really suffering because they were so thirsty.  Do NOT mess around on this trail.  Bring more than enough water and food.
• Camera.  Why would you put yourself through so much work and not take pictures at the top?  Reviews say you can see half the state of Oregon from the summit.  It might be an exaggeration, but maybe not.  It was impressive.

THE HIKE

The day we hiked South Sister wispy clouds swirled around and past the summit.  Hoards of hikers were hitting the trail, so we decided it was safe enough to give it a go.  We parked in the Devils Lake Trailhead parking lot and started hiking from that point.  12.5 mile round trip to see it all.

Heading out.

The trail crosses a little creek and then launches straight uphill through thick and dense forest with no view of mountains.  Our hiking book (100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades by William L. Sullivan), our hiking map, and the trip reviews we read all stated that this first 1.5 miles is a litmus test for the remainder of the hike.  If the hike through the dense woods feels too difficult, stop at Morraine Lake for lunch and head back to your car.  

We assumed that the moss on the trees shows how high the snow is in the winter.  For frame of reference, Curt is 6' 3".

It was tough.  Hard, sweaty work putting one foot in front of the other on steep terrain to get out of the woods and into a sandy plateau that showcases Morraine Lake, South Sister looming straight ahead, and Broken Top to the right.  We couldn't believe how spectacular it was once we got out of the woods.

take note of the wispy clouds at the summit

The plateau offers a respite for burning legs too.  Nice and flat, it's a great place to catch your breath and eat lunch or a snack.  After our break we continued climbing.  The terrain on the trail changed the further up we got.  What used to be hard packed dirt changed to sandy, lava rock that shifted under our feet.  The grade of the trail was STEEP.  It took us a long time to pick our way up another 1.1 miles to the saddle overlooking a glacier lake so green that it didn't look real.

portion of the trail between the plateau and the glacial lake

From the glacier lake we followed a rocky trail to the left, up the spine of the ridge.  The lip of the South Sister crater (we called it a false summit) is .7 miles from the glacial lake, but it felt much farther.  It was .7 miles of one step forward, slide back half the distance.  The shifty, rocky soil turned dark red.  We learned its called cinder scree and it is really difficult to hike in.  The trail is narrow and there are lots of hikers on it.  Everyone was courteous of each other and no one went fast.  

the ridge spine above the glacial lake

one of my favorite photos from the hike.  This photo is not color enhanced.  It really looks like this.

The air was thinner and Curt started to experience some altitude sickness - dizziness and light-headed feeling.  We found a nice rhythm of taking ten or so steps then stopping to rest.   We did a happy dance when we reached the top.  The hardest part was over.

almost there.  That's the glacial lake we just hiked past.

the last .7 miles up the ridge were tough!

the lip of the crater of South Sister.  That little blue section on the bottom left is Teardrop Pool

A tiny lake called Teardrop Pool sits inside the South Sister Crater, surrounded by unmelted snow pack. We filtered more water to drink from Teardrop Pond and stopped to take bazillions of pictures.  It was COLD and windy at the summit and we couldn't believe how fast we cooled off.  We reached the lip of the crater dripping sweat.  Within minutes we were both wearing every layer we packed, including stocking hats and gloves.  Be prepared!   

all these pictures were taken at the lip of the crater.

The official summit was .4 miles further around the crater.  We hiked the trail along the right edge of the crater toward the summit. It was slow going because of the altitude, the wind, and the breathtaking views that we wanted to really absorb. Plus we were starving and I was getting "hangry."  

working our way to the official summit.

We decided to stop for lunch first and then finish our journey to the summit.  Curt found this awesome nook in the rocks that was sheltered from the wind.  We nestled in and ate our lunch at the top of South Sister, staring down at the places we've backpacked already and getting a bird's eye view of all the places we've scouted out for future trips.  It really was surreal.

our lunch spots.  Not bad, eh?

While we were eating a summer storm rolled in.  The wispy, pretty clouds we saw from Morraine Lake got thicker.  The wind picked up.  The temperature dropped.  Middle and North Sister are so close to the South Sister that it looks like you can touch them, but the cloud cover from the storm completely obliterated the view before I was able to get any good photos.  

making our way to the official summit we had a few clouds 

that quickly turned to this 

and finally this. 

The little bumps on the ridge are hikers.  This is the official summit.

We stayed for about fifteen minutes hoping the storm would roll out, but instead it seemed to get worse.  Hikers packed up and left in droves, and we joined them.  A good picture wasn't worth the risk of getting stuck in a storm.  Plus now I have to do it again for the photo op that I missed out on.

The descent shreds your quads and is almost as slow going as the ascent.  With the rocky terrain constantly shifting under our feet, each step was unstable, and the grade of the trails was just so steep.    We had to be really calculated and even then we relied heavily on our poles to not fall.  We joined the other hikers who were slipping, sliding and tripping back down to the glacial lake.  

Curt on the descent.

coming down you get a really great view of all the ground you covered to get to the top.

working our way back down.  That's Broken Top.  

We stopped again at the glacial lake for a break and to refill our water bottles.  The next portion of the trail had less cinder scree but was still brutally steep.  It's hard to stay balanced and upright on unstable ground and we both tripped and fell a couple of times.  Nothing injured except our pride.  

It was a welcome relief to hit the plateau by Morraine Lake.  We ate one more snack and then hit the steep descent through the forest as hard and fast as we could.  The last 1.5 miles through the forest seemed to drag on forever.  Our legs were tired and the magnificent views were gone.  It was hard to stay motivated, but we finally saw the parking lot.   Mission accomplished!

exhausted but so satisfied!

We went to Elk Lake for an evening swim to wash off all the dirt and grime from our journey.  We stood on the water's edge and gazed up South Sister.  It was surreal to think that hours earlier we had lunch at the summit!  

night time swim

morning swim.  Checking out the mountain we climbed the day before.

The high from our adventure lasted for weeks.  It's part of why it took me so long to write about it.  How was I supposed to capture an adventure like this in a blog post of hopefully 1,000 words or less? 

I know we'll tackle the South Sister again, and hopefully soon.  I really want unobstructed photos from the summit and I'd love to take our kids with us.  I know they could do it if they set their minds to it.  It would be a really sweet memory to make together too.  Maybe next summer...

Happy hiking!

Definitely Worth the Effort: Dog Mountain Hike

A picture of a picture, but isn't my mom adorable?

When we still lived in Chicago, my Mom sent me a picture of her on a hike.  I was so taken with the image and the scenery that I immediately added the hike to my Bucket List for our next trip to Oregon.

Me and My Love on the Dog Mountain Trail

It took six years of living in Oregon, but we finally hiked Dog Mountain.  We wanted to do this hike when the wildflowers were blooming.  We had a date scheduled in spring 2013, but I broke my foot so we had to delay the hike until this spring.  We chose a date in mid May and Curt took the day off work so we could hike while the kids were in school.

The only glitch with our planning was a little event called a marathon.  I added one to my spring schedule and ran it the day before we went hiking.  My legs were a tad sore the morning of the hike, but I always like to go for a walk the day after a big race to shake my legs out.  We decided the hike would be my "little walk" (and then some).  I proudly wore my Marathon Finisher t-shirt for the hike.  Since it's florescent orange, there was no problem spotting me on the trail!

can you see me?

Dog Mountain is on the Washington side of the Gorge so you need a Washington State Parks pass or a Northwest Forest Pass to park in the lot.  The trailhead is located right off WA 14 and is super easy to find.  I think it took us about two hours to get to the trailhead from Newberg -  but don't quote me on that cause we did this in May and I'm writing this review in September.

Curt on the trail once we hit the meadow

Our hiking book (60 Hikes within 60 Miles Portland by Paul Gerald) rates the Dog Mountain hike as strenuous.  My Mom and Terry - who have both hiked it several times - gave a whole hearted endorsement to the strenuous rating.  My mom, Terry, and the author of the book all made it seem like being in excellent condition is a necessity to do this hike, but rest assured.  If you have all day to hike, a good dose of determination, and decent hiking shoes you can do this hike.  Slow and steady is the name of the game.  Your level of soreness the following day however will coincide with what kind of condition you are in.

taking a break on the Augsperger portion of the trail.  

Most hikers do this as an out-and-back on the Dog Mountain Trail, but I always prefer a loop when it's an option.  We took the Augsperger Mountain Trail (on the left) and looped our way up to the summit of Dog Mountain.  Apparently the grade of the trail on this side is less steep than the Dog Mountain side, but it still felt strenuous.  We gained 2,700 vertical feet in 3.7 uphill miles.

My handsome man on the trail

The Augsperger Mountain Trail is mostly through beautiful woods, but has periodic openings that showcase the Columbia River Gorge and Wind Mountain.  At one point the trail takes a sharp turn to the right.  Curt and I made the turn and saw two girl hikers coming down.  They were chattering away and one clearly had a European accent.  She saw us, spotted my shirt, and immediately complimented me on how fun the color was.  When she saw it was a marathon finishers shirt, she wanted more details.  She was so exuberantly happy for me and the next thing I knew she was hugging me on the trail.  It was really funny and touching and made Curt and I both smile.

views for miles

Side note:  One of the reasons why I love my 60 Hikes in 60 Miles book is because Paul Gerald has a sense of humor.  He also knows all kinds of interesting historical facts about the hikes.  We were surprised to learn Dog Mountain is called that "because some pioneers in the area were forced to eat their dogs to avoid starvation."  The town of Hood River was originally called Dog River but people changed the name because no one liked to be reminded of the dog-eating incident.  Do you blame them?

These yellow flowers covered the meadow and that's Wind Mountain in the distance.

We climbed 3/4 of the way to the summit through the woods and then came out into a meadow overlooking the Gorge.  The meadow was FILLED with wildflowers, just like the picture of my Mom.  We couldn't believe how beautiful it was!  We took our time meandering through the meadow on the trail, taking photos and oohing and aching over acres and acres of mountain meadows alive in colorful flowers.  It was stunning.

I love adventuring with this guy.

We eventually hiked our way to the summit of Dog Mountain and parked ourselves with a few other hikers on a grassy area with panoramic view.  A spring chill lingered in the air but the taste of summer was on the gentle breeze that blew through my hair and made the flowers dance.  I laid down in the grass and let myself fall asleep for twenty blissful minutes, drifting in and out of consciousness and being lulled by the breeze and a few bees.  It was wonderful.

We took the Dog Mountain Trail back to the car.  Shorter, but steeper, it was a good quad burner, especially toward the end when the trail descends 600 vertical feet in less than half a mile.

on the trail.  The layers came on and off as we hiked.

The research I've done shows this trail is CROWDED on the weekends.  Since we hiked on a Monday morning, I don't have a true gauge for the accuracy of that.  We virtually had the mountain to ourselves and I liked it like that.  If you can get away for a day trip during the week, that would be my recommendation, especially because the trail isn't very wide so passing people in both directions would get kind of cozy.

take note of narrow trail.

We saw an elementary aged kid hiking the trail with his Dad.  This trail was very safe and I would have no reservations bringing our kids out to hike it.  It was difficult though, so be prepared for whining, a lot of breaks, and possibly bribery.  There's a great candy store in Cascade Locks that works wonders to regulate whining and I Can't Do It behavior.

Make everyone in your hiking party carry their own backpack.  You'll need a lot of water, a lunch, hearty snacks, and layers of clothing.  It gets a little chilly at the top.

Dog Mountain by the Stats
Mileage: 7.15 miles
Total Elapsed Time (including lunch and rest breaks): 4:36:28
Average Pace Per Mile: 25:20 min/mile
Total Moving Time: 3:01:11
Elevation Gain: 2,867 vertical feet
Elevation Loss: 2,864 vertical feet

Happy hiking!

Mirror Lake to Tom, Dick and Harry Summit Hike

The fam at the summit of Tom, Dick and Harry Mountain (yes really...)

My poor husband has been sick for three weeks so we've been canceling plans left and right and practicing laying low.  He's finally feeling better so we went on a family hike today to Mirror Lake - our last big outing before school starts.

One good thing about Mirror Lake is easy access to the trailhead.  The trailhead is literally right off Highway 26 before Mt. Hood Meadows.  You turn a corner as you're climbing the mountain and BOOM.  There's the trailhead parking.  The fact that the trailhead parking is on the side of a highway is also kind of bad.  It's pretty dangerous to get in and out of the parking area and it's usually very crowded.  A Northwest Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead.  Or you can drive down to the next pull-out on the highway, park for free, and walk back to the trailhead.

There is no drinking water at the trailhead or on the trail.  Pack in your own water and/or bring a filter and filter it from the lake.  The trailhead has two outhouses and my advice is to not go near them.  They were almost overflowing and clearly hadn't been serviced in a long time.  BRING YOUR OWN TOLIET PAPER and pee in the woods.

The hike to Mirror Lake is only 1.4 miles (2.8 round trip).  It's a steady incline through thick and beautiful forest all the way to the lake. The grade of the incline isn't steep though.  Our hiking book rated this portion of the hike as easy, but I'd say it falls more into the easy-to-moderate category.

Sisters taking a break

We brought our dog Dusty with us today, something we only do on occassion when we're hiking.  She's a bit of a prima donna (I think she secretly thinks she's a human) and doesn't have a lot of experience in the wilderness so we choose carefully the hikes we bring her on.  This one was great because the trail was wide enough for her to not trip us or other hikers and she loved saying hi to all the other dogs and hikers on the trail.

Yep - she's cute!

Mirror Lake is smaller than I expected, but is quiet, quaint and really serene.  Newly built staircases branch out from the main hiking trail, leading hikers down to the water's edge. The lake is shallow with a muddy bottom. Wading close to shore was kind of dirty, but the kids who went all in loved swimming out into the relatively shallow lake.  Mirror Lake also has some camp sites on the bluff around the perimeter of the lake, making it a prime spot for a quick and easy backpacking trip.

Rock pile at one of the trail switchbacks

We took a short snack break on the water's edge and continued our hike on the Tom, Dick and Harry trail. It's another 1.8 miles (3.6 miles round trip) of a steady, uphill climb to the summit.  This portion of the hike is rated moderate. There is a really great viewpoint on a rocky ledge about halfway up the mountain that gives a little teaser of the views that await at the summit.

viewpoint about halfway to the summit.

The summit was super rocky - some of them jagged and pointy, others round and smooth like recliners - and it provided awesome views of Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood (that was cloaked in cloud cover today), Mt. St. Helens and Mt. Rainer (also in cloud cover), and the foothills around all these big peaks.  It also has a bird's eye view of Mirror Lake which looks itty bitty from way up top.  If you look really closely you can see hikers walking around the edge of Mirror Lake.

Mt. Hood and Mirror Lake

Mt. Jefferson

Alli and the foothills around us

Mirror Lake - look closely.  Can you see the hikers on the trail?

Bird's eye view of the lake

It was a pretty sweet spot to take a little rest. Curt, Dusty, Katie and Paige snuggled into a rounded out rock facing Mt. Hood.  Grant went exploring and chucked giant rocks off the summit.  Alli explored for a while and then snuggled up with the rest of the family.  We all enjoyed the cooling breeze and the beautiful view.

Grant throwing rocks

Family Resting Spot 

We stopped at the lake again on the way back down.  Grant and Alli swam out into the lake to retrieve a giant log then floated it all over the lake while Katie and Paige played on the shore.  The girls made a new friend who asked her mom if they could hike back to our cars with us, so they did.  They were Russian and taught us how to say "Hi" in Russian.

Grant and Alli on a log they floated around the lake

Both hikes combined totaled 6.4 miles, but this hike didn't feel terribly long because the lake broke up our journey on the way up and the way back.  Some of our children (who will remain nameless to protect their identity) whined and complained quite a bit in the first hour, but that was a personal choice and not because this trail was too hard for them. Mirror Lake is a great hike for kids in elementary school and older because there aren't any dangerous parts, but it requires having some endurance if you want to hike all the way to the top.

If you go, have your kids carry their own backpack stocked with water, a change of clothes and a towel, a whistle and garbage bag in case they get lost, and more snacks than you think they will need. They get thirsty and hungry in the woods.  Watch your step on the trail.  It's easy to trip over rocks and tree roots.  Finally, there was a wasp nest just off the edge of the trail about 1/3 of mile into our hike.T he wasps were dive bombing and stinging hikers but we made it through unscathed.  Thank you Jesus since Katie is allergic to bees.

Another great adventure

Happy hiking!